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Travel & Resources: KOREA

www.utopia-asia.com

Thanks to Bob Dog, Bruno, Mark D., Asiaboy, T. Kim, Byung Doh, Jason B., Rus H., Rob T., Dae Hyun, Drew, James Doell, Ken, Roger, John S., Phillip E., P. Kim, David B., Stan T., Todd K., Bob W., J. K. Park, Lacoste, and Neil for updates.

Advisory: Homosexuals in Korea have no established tradition of overtly discriminatory laws to struggle against. There are no sodomy laws proscribing oral or anal intercourse, largely because these acts have traditionally been considered utterly unmentionable in any public forum or document. Homosexuality has never been brought before Korean courts. No one has mentioned homosexuality in any divorce proceedings, custody or adoption battles. Never-the-less, conservative pockets exist in Korean society. A popular children's TV show host was dismissed from his job when he became the first celebrity to proclaim is homosexuality to the public. The number of homosexuals coming out of the closet is growing every day. Korea witnessed its first lesbian commitment ceremony on November 27, 1995.

On November 1, 2001, the Ministry of Information and Communications formally enacted an internet content rating system classifying gay and lesbian websites as "harmful media" and mandating their blockage--all under the guise of protecting youth. The Ministry acted after an April 2001 decision by the Korean Information and Communications Ethics Committee (ICEC)--an officially independent body with wide censorship powers--which classified homosexuality under the category of "obscenity and perversion" in its "Criteria for Indecent Internet Sites." Activists in Korea trace the roots of this definition to a 1997 law that classifies descriptions of "homosexual love" as "harmful to youth." The MIC accepted this classification in July. Enforcement of these measures was swift. The owner of Exzone.com, the first and largest gay website in Korea, received a notice stating that if it did not immediately mark itself as a 'harmful site' and install filtering software to prevent youth access, he would be penalized with a fine of approximately US$10,000 or two years' imprisonment.

EAST MEETS WEST IN INTAEWON’S GAY ENCLAVE

by Benjamin Jhoty, Korea Herald, Sept 7, 2001

Early evening is a calm, relatively serene hour in Itaewon. While late night debauchery here in Seoul’s notorious expatriate neighborhood can rival a port town in its spectacle of tawdriness, delinquency and nefarious activity, right now the mood is restrained. GI’s from the nearby Yongsan garrison roam the streets in packs, as traders pulling their carts of fake Rolexes and counterfeit goods charge up the hills to set up shop for the night. The area’s many bars and clubs are empty, and while the infamous ‘hooker hill’ is lit, it’s largely starved of action.

Moving across just one block to the parallel ‘Homo Hill,’ as it’s known to its clientele, the scene is no different. The five bars here, easily distinguished by the rainbow flag of gay pride that hangs from their stylish facades, won’t get going until at least midnight. While there are a number of gay establishments catering to foreigners in the Itaewon area, this small enclave, in its concentration of bars and clubs - Always Homme, Why Not, Trance, Club Queen and Soho - is the center of Seoul’s burgeoning expatriate gay and lesbian community and more than a few Koreans.

Seo Yong-shik has been manager of Always Homme and Why Not for two years. Having opened the bars for no ostensible reason other than, “because I’m gay”, Seo says his bars attract up to 400 gays, lesbians, bisexuals and straight customers on Saturday nights, the crowd regularly spilling out onto the street and hopping from bar to bar.

With a clientele that is 70 percent foreign, 30 percent “domestic,” Seo says the community is intimate enough for everyone to know each other, although new faces are always welcome. “The foreign clientele is mainly English teachers including professors, as well as businessmen, diplomats, tourists and GI’s,” he said. “I know all the customers so when a new face arrives its like a new kid on the block.”

The slogan for Why Not is “Where east meets west” and according to Seo the mix of foreigners and Koreans is more noticeable and successful than at straight clubs in Itaewon and elsewhere. “When I go to straight bars it’s almost all GI’s or foreigners but here we have a much more equal mix, sometimes half-half.”

Seo’s friend and club regular, Jay Hwang agrees. “Foreigners come here because it’s a great place where English is spoken and they can experience a different flavor,” he said. “I think that not just in Korea but in other cultures, gays tend to travel and are accepting towards new cultures and lifestyles. Many gay people in Korea travel a lot and they know they can meet foreigners here.”

Hwang, an affable, softly spoken man with a ready smile, is almost 40, and something of a veteran of the Korean gay scene, although he only returned to Korea this year after living in Germany with his partner for three years. Commenting on the many gay bars in Chongno’s Tapgol Park area, he says they are almost overwhelmingly frequented by Koreans and are more or less like traditional Korean bars in set-up. “There you have to sit down at a table and order side dishes and its very karaoke oriented whereas the bars here are ‘oneshot’ bars like Western bars where you can order one drink at a time and move around and dance. I think that’s one reason why some Koreans come here, because it’s more comfortable and of course they are curious.”

The Itaewon scene is also decidedly more up-market, with slick, boutique style establishments. Always Homme and Soho are immaculate and refined, attracting a younger crowd than in Tapgol, while also being more conspicuous. “Five years ago you wouldn’t imagine this,” Hwang said. “It’s not on the main street but having the gay pride flags is a big thing. The clubs are much more obvious here. When I was young in Chongno you had to know where they were. They are still hidden down alleys or in basements. Sometimes you had to call numbers and people would come and pick you up.”

Utopia-asia.com a website that provides information on the gay and lesbian scene in countries throughout Asia told The Korea Herald that Korea’s gay scene has become more public in the last decade as awareness of gays and lesbians in society has increased. “Homosexuality is not a western import. Asia has rich and unique homosexual traditions almost everywhere you look. The true enemy of homosexuality in places like Korea, Singapore, Indonesia, Malaysia and the Phillipines are antique colonial laws and homophobic non-Asian religions that bully citizens with skewed views of the natural world.”

Information in the Korean section of the website however advises that while legislation against homosexuality is absent in Korea, this shouldn’t be interpreted as acceptance. “Homosexuals in Korea have no established tradition of overtly discriminatory laws to struggle against. There are no sodomy laws proscribing oral or anal intercourse, largely because these acts have been considered utterly unmentionable in any public forum or document.”

Rich Lewis, a visiting businessman from San Jose, California on his fourth visit to Korea and second to Itaewon, compared the Korean scene favorably with other countries in Asia. “I regularly go to Tokyo which is much bigger, but there are really only one or two bars that are welcoming,” he said. “It’s nice to have a multiplicity of bars to go to. My impression is that a lot of Asia is conservative so I’m surprised by how open it is here.”

Hwang believes the Korean gay scene is gradually becoming more exposed with the media reporting the coming out of Hong Suk Chung and the continued interest in transsexual, Ha Ri Soo bringing recognition and slowly, greater acceptance.

Nevertheless he says it is still very much underground. “The number of Koreans who come out is very limited,” he said. “There are probably millions of closet cases. They may go ‘cruising’ or to bath houses but wouldn’t dream to come here. For me personally, only two of my friends know. I haven’t told my family, but I think if I did come out my family would eventually come around and accept it. I’m almost 40 so family pressure to get married is nearly behind me. I think they’ve given up on me.”

The presence of a small number of GI’s at gay bars in Itaewon may surprise some although Seo said their patronage is well known and they are welcomed by the community. “The policy in the military is don’t ask, don’t tell,” he said. “The military police walk past but they don’t bother us.”

USFK Public Information and Media Relations Officer, Lee Ferguson said the ‘Don’t ask, don’t tell, don’t harass’ policy had been successful in maintaining the necessary balance between the prohibition of homosexual conduct in the military and the private rights of service members. She added that while a few places in Seoul are off-limits because of illegal drugs, “our service men and women have the freedom to shop, eat and drink in Itaewon and other off-post locations, as long as the establishment is not off-limits.”

Of course clandestine relationships and concealment of identity are issues all gays and lesbians face, but naturally heightened for those in such hostile environments as the military.

While Korean society isn’t much warmer in its reception of those coming out, Hwang believes the younger generation has a more positive attitude towards being gay. “Being gay is not easy anywhere, it’s one more thing to go through, but the younger generation have grown up with the internet and they don’t seem so interested or pressured about getting married. In our time it was something we took for granted while finding pleasure on the side.”

Still, the stifling climate of hostility makes Korean gays secretive and unwilling to disclose much about themselves, Hwang said. “I prefer foreigners because Korean gay culture is still very much in the closet and you have to be secretive. My experiences with Korean guys have not been successful because they wouldn’t open up to me whereas foreigners tend to be more open and direct which made a difference for me. With Koreans of course, like in mainstream society you have to set the hierarchy, who is hyong etc.” Breaking into a laugh, “we are gay in a different way but we are still Korean.”

Chingusai

"Among Friends" is Korea's first gay magazine. It is available at the gay bars. Korean language.

There is no tipping in Korea and you will receive good service without tipping.

Many Korean-style bars, and especially the Karaoke bars, will often demand that you buy small snacks at hugely inflated prices. If the bar is advertised as "western" then you will not be hassled with this custom. At Karaoke bars you may sit at the bar itself where you can refuse snacks. If you take a table you will automatically be presented with expensive snacks, and the nearer you are to the singing stage the higher the cost. Unless you are a Karoke addict the best advice is to steer clear of karaoke-type places.

Comments from the Net:

"Some good information for LBGT foreigners living in Korea and not just traveling. Any foreigner who has been here for more than 6 months can attest to this....not necessarily negative but true...Korea is a beautiful country that is rich in culture and tradition. Koreans take pride in their countryside, achievements, food and language and as well they should. Although gay life here is growing somewhat, Korea is still highly embedded in confucian ways. The permanancy and regular meetings that a westerner sometimes expects in a relationship is virtually non-existent. Koreans are bound by secrecy, mandatory drinking appointments by senior work associates and friends, mandatory military service, university and family commitments. Koreans see realtionships in a different light than westerners and rarely, even in heterosexual relationships, is the partner considered "number one". Culturally, Koreans are expected to marry by the late 20's so it is not unusual to see a gay Korean marry after leading a very gay active life. It is also not unusual to meet a Korean over 30 who is married with a family and leading a dual life with a secret gay lover.

"Many gay establishments welcome foreigners however, as a rule, foreigners are generally viewed as promiscuous ("casanova" or "playboy" are popular terms) when in fact Koreans are just as promiscuous as any other culture, just a bit more secretive. It's not totally impossible to have a relationship in Korea but this is usually with a Korean who has lived, studied or traveled extensively abroad and who has developed a greater understanding of gay culture. Korean gay society, like many others is very "style" (popular term) based, putting a great emphasis on body type and sexual role as opposed to the qualities of the real person.

"Although the number of documented HIV cases is somewhat low in Korea compared to the rest of Asia, there is still ignorance and it is important to practice safe sex measures at all times. Any foreigner admitted to a Korean hospital is always automatically tested for HIV without permission and will be deported if tested positive." -- Mark D., Mar 27, 2002

Don't miss reading this fascinating look at Gay and Lesbian Life in Korea.

Additional Links and Resources

Chingusai

can be reached by phone M-F, 19:00-22:00 at (82-2) 464-7916 or 462-8425. Gay men's group whose name means "'between friends".

Korean Coalition for Lesbian, Bisexual, Gay, and Transgender Rights

On Saturday, June 28, the Korean Coalition for Lesbian, Bisexual, Gay, and Transgender Rights held a public rally in Pagoda Park, located in the heart of downtown Seoul, to promote visibility and celebrate the 3rd anniversary of the coalition's founding.

Lesbian Groups and Venues

Ma-Um 001 (student)

Student group committed to the rights of oppressed sexual minorities.

People With People(student)

Campus group at the University of Korea.

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Kwangju

Fantasia

Near the main Kwangju Bank tower on a second floor level. Owner speaks English. Popular with 30-50s crowd.

Pyung Hwa (Little Peace)

Between Kum Nam No (Gold South St.) and the river (near the bridge with stone tiger heads) across from a major movie theatre. This hole-in-the-wall is damp and run down (underground), but the young hosts can give a lot of information English and draw maps to other places.

Speed

(062) 226-9420. E-mail: speedzone9@hotmail.com. Friendly pub with karaoke.

Kum Nam No shopping center facilties, late night

A good spa (quite gay, discrete) is located between and parallel to Kum Nam No and Art St (Art St is mentioned in may tourist pamphlets). Across from the YMCA is the excellent Foreign Exchange Bank. Cut down this road and the spa is well down the first left. The spa is indicated by a typical sauna symbol and a rotating barber pole. The sleeping room can be quite active. It friendly for foreigners.

Spa near Little Peace (see Clubs above). It is best to ask for a map sketch at a bar. This place is more discrete than the sauna mentioned above.

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PUSAN -- area code (82-51)

?! Men's Club

806-5889. Telephone in advance and someone will guide you from the Pum Eel Dong Subway, Hyundai Deptartment Store exit. Young crowd.

Campus

441-7032. Karaoke anju bar near the train station, to the extreme right (the road closest to and parallel to the train tracks) as you walk out of the station, about 5 minutes walk. Male hosts and expensive snacks. The owner speaks minimal English. The Tourist booth across from the train station can give you the phone number.

Chaplins

Near ?! Men's Club. Both places are among the hundreds of regular bars behind (south of) Lotte Dept. Store.

Kootenay

(051) 805-0857, (011) 562-0857. Phone for directions. A very stylish, large coctail bar, hidden in the alleys between Burger King and Migleore Deptartment Store. Some of the staff speaks English.

Zip

645-3625. Bomildong area, just a few hundred feet south of Hyundai Department Store. They will collect you from the Pum Eel Dong Subway station if you call.

Comments from the Net:

"There are lots of new and old bars in The Bomildong area just a few hundred feet south of Hyundai Department Store. Some of the names are Oasis (rustic, nice) Always (karioke), Zipper (karioke), Zip (cocktails). These places are just a little in from the main road. It looks spooky in these small streets but it is pretty safe." -- Robt T., Oct 10, 2001

4U

(051) 466-7236. Friendly for foreigners.

Comments from the Net:

""There is a new and good sleeping room in Busan, Korea. It's called "4U" and it has a neon sign above ground at one corner of the Choryang subway station (line 1). This is across the road from a big Baptist Hospital. Not hard to find. This is a nice clean and comfortable place." -- Robt T., Oct 10, 2001

Dong-Gyong (mixed)

Somyon, a 5-minute walk from the Somyon subway station. Head east on the north side of the street of the Somyon Rotary, and turn left at the first corner, then turn right on next corner. Behind the north-east building at the Somyon Rotary. Not gay, but many of the guests are gay. Open 24 hours, but especially popular in the daytime, from 2-6pm. There is playing in the dark room (sleeping room). Very popular on Sat afternoon. CLsoed Sun.

Ho Chim Song

Dong Nae. Not gay, but a must-see. A huge, well-known bathing complex with pools, caves, birds and completely nude men -- fathers, sons, sports teams -- hanging out, lounging around, rough-housing, exercising, whatever. Obviously, this place is popular with gays.

Yel Lin Sae Sang

464-1865. A 24 hr "sleeping room" (showers, kimono etc.) about 10 min. walk from the central train terminal. Ask for a little hand drawn map at the tourist booth across the street from the station. A lot of fun and a good place to crash if you have been out on the town drinking a bit. Welcomes foreigners. However once inside don't talk to anyone (unless you speak Korean). Let nature take it's course. Those that are attracted will approach you.

Comments from the Net:

"Tong Nae Hot Springs has to be seen to be believed. On a weekend up to 200 males of all ages can be seen here at any one time. It is NOT a gay bath house but some gay guys go there for obvious reasons so you can make eye contact and meet up later. Please respect the ambience of the place and keep discreet. It has several saunas indoor and outdoor, a small swimming pool, herbal baths, showers galore, waterfalls, massage tables, restrooms, etc. The cleanest bath house you will see in Korea with towels, robes, pyjamas, lotions and hair dryers. Open from early morning to late evening. Very busy on weekends with Koreans, Japanese and a few western clients." -- Anonymous, Aug 20, 2001

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PYONGTAEK -- area code (82-31)

K-2

Songtan, Anjeong-Ri, Osan AFB, Camp Humphrey, (01) 655-3889. See their website for a map. A friendly local bar with karaoke nearby two U.S. Military bases. Inexpensive drinks and English-speaking staff.

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SEOUL -- area code (82-2)

Come Together (student)

Yonsei University. Korea's 1st gay college association.

Hwarang

Kunkuk University, Seoul, (82-15) 280-5148.

Maum 003

Seoul National University, (82-15) 844-7137.

The Seoul Queer Film & Video Festival

Nakwon-dong 195-1, Midong Building #301, Chongno-ku Seoul, Republic of Korea.

Saram'kwa Saram

Koryo University, Seoul, (82-15) 943-4742.

Comments from the Net:

"Gay bars in Korea are in their infancy. They are small, basic in design, and limited in their facilities. That there are gay bars in Korea, and that most night-going people know they exist, and the police have not tried to shut them down, is a big, BIG step for Korea. I visited only the bars in the Itaewon district. I talked with the owners of each of these bars. Most of them had the same thing to say: The "out" crowd of Korean patrons was still very small and bars made just enough to keep their doors open. But the crowds are growing as awareness of homosexuality and, more importantly, admittance and acceptance of gay identity is gaining popularity among the younger Koreans.

I was told by bar owners and other Koreans that the crowds in the otehr gay area (near the Pagoda Park) were older (in the 40's) and very cruisy. So, I stuck with Itaewon whose crowd is generally young (18-30) and "new age."

In general, I found the guys I met to be interested in relationships more than "one night stands." The phrase "I'm looking for a lover, not a sex partner" seems to be popular. Still, there were plenty of guys out for adventure." -- Alan M., Jan 31, 1999

Hahahoho

Billed as Korea's first gay cabaret, featuring transgender and gay performers.

There are many small bars located in the center of Seoul in the Nag Weon Dong neighborhood to the north and east of Topkol Park (Independence Park) which is on Chongno (see Meeting Places below). They are quite small and hard to find, Korean style, with older customers. Also, after midnight, the exterior lights are turned off and the front doors locked, to comply with local law. Bars may still be open, but you will have to know how to find the side or back entrances if the front door is locked. It is best to let a friend take you and to get a business card for repeat visits. There are gays wandering around this area who may be helpful in directing you to the bars. It will be easier to find the clubs in Itaewon (the area frequented by foreigners) listed below. This area has seen an explosion of foreigner-friendly, upscale gay bars.

Always Homme

Itaewon, E-mail: AlwaysHomme@hotmail.com, 798-0578 or 017-216-1140. A large bar across from Why Not? and next to Trance. A cozy pre/post club meeting place. Decorated with antiques and knicknacks from around the world. An exceptional selection of fine wines, spirits, fresh juices, and quality coffees. Crowd is a combination of expats, tourists, and young locals. Jae, barman Gil, and the staff all speak excellent English and can provide info on the local scene. Open nightly until early morning, open afternoons on Sat and Sun. Utopia Member Discount

Annies

3/F, 130-34 Itaewon Dong, 3785-2197. Close to the Burger King across from the Hamilton Hotel. Third floor above karaoke bars, large sign. Nice, quiet, elegant bar. Recently under gay ownership.

California

72-32 Itaewon, Yongsan (in the center of Itaewon shopping area), 749-7738, E-mail: gabby2030@hotmail.com. From Hamilton Hotel, walk about 150 meters towards Yongsan US Army Base, cross Itaewon Street and look for the California sign hanging near a telephone booth. Take stairs down to entrance. Cafe/Bar open from 6pm until late (the only gay place open during the afternoon). Disco in the basement on Fri and Sat. Stunning staff are very friendly. California has been renovated to include an outdoor terrace. International ambiance. Ask for a free map of the gay bars in Itaewon. Utopia Member Discount

Cine City

745-5238. A small, upmarket gay lounge with a strong link to cinema. It seats around 20 and provides a quieter, comfortable atmosphere. Prices are reasonable. Take a taxi to the English Language Studies (ELS) building in Chongno 3 Ga (a well known landmark). Walk along the cross road opposite the ELS building. On your left is the Pagoda, a gay theatre. Cross to the first lane on the right. Walk along past a few shops on your left and take the first set of open stairs. Turn left at the top to enter Cine City.

Fushigi

Yongsan-Gu Itaewon 1-Dong 130-4, 795-2080. Walk up the street adjacent to Burger King and take the first lane on your right. Fushigi is a short walk down the lane. You will see the name and the rainbow flag on your left. A quiet, elegant bar with comfortable seating, from lounge chairs to padded bar stools set among gentle aquariums and side tables with low lighting from lamps. Prices are reasonable and staff is friendly. Fushigi is not a loud pick-up bar, rather it is designed as a meeting place in Itaewon for gays and their friends to relax in high quality surroundings. Educated, well-dressed patrons, welcoming to foreigners.

James'

Basement 137-14 Itaewon-Dong, Yongsan-Gu, 790-6119. A rock cafe/cruise bar that plays eclectic music and unique videos. The owners speak English and visitors are welcome. Happy hours Mon - Sat. Clean and plenty of good seating. Gay-themed videos are projected.

Out Class

A gay bar/cafe in the same building as Zipper. Soft pop music and a nice place for chatting.

Platinum

Itaewon, 795-0884. Take the road directly opposite Hamilton Hotel, walk for about 3 minutes past Burger King and Key West, and you should see white sign for Aspirin, turn right there and you'll find the entrance for Platinum. Open nightly.

Rei

From the Hamilton hotel, cross the street to the Burger King. Keep walking with your back to the Hamilton until you get to a large "T" intersection. You'll see an italian restaurant across the street to the right. Rei is on the left side of the intersection. Friendly staff and nice place to chill out.

Soho

797-2280, (019) 357-3235, E-mail: soho_korea@hotmail.com. Adjacent to Why Not. Friendly, international bar. English speaking staff.

This Boyz

Itaewan, 796-4454. Transgender friendly.

Trance

136-42 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-Gu, Itaewon, 797-3410. Close to Spartacus. From the Itaewon Fire Station, walk up the hill about 100 meters, turn left on the second small street (just after the King Club), Trance is just behind it. Good music and dancing. Packed late at night and on Fri and Sat nights when they have a drag show. Friendly staff, English speaking. Cruisy. Local and foreign patrons. Lots of grabbing when it gets crowded.

Why Not?

137-4 Yongsan-Ku, Itaewon, 795-8193. With the Hamilton Hotel at your back, cross the street (you should see the Burger King on the left) and go straight ahead one block. Turn left down the 1st alley (there is a pharmacy on the left and a locksmith on the right). Go straight ahead to the next major intersection (lots of neon lights and bars) and turn right. Go ahead until you reach "King Club" and turn left down the alley. Go up the hill. You will see Trance on the left and Why Not? on the right. The building with the rod iron fence around the front balcony is Why Not? The building is clearly marked with a rainbow flag and name. Nice sort of "CHEERS" atmosphere. Upscale local/foreign crowd with higher ranking soldiers, embassy workers, foreign English and educated, well-dressed Koreans. Very nice staff who make conversation with everyone and seem to be having a genuinely good time. Good music and open late. Highly recommended for visitors. Some lesbian patrons as well.

Zenith

128-11 Itaewon (basement of the "JFK" Bld), 749-7738. From the Hamilton Hotel, cross Itaewongil Ave to the road directly opposite, then take the first alley on the right. Zenith is opposite fushigi. Very popular bar, disco and pool table. Staff are friendly, speak English, and willing to play matchmaker if you fancy someone. Local and foreign crowd, mostly younger. Busiest on weekends when they have a drag show. Open until early morning.

Zipper

Behind Hamilton Hotel (turn left, walk to end of street and down a set of outdoor steps). Bar and disco with drag show on Tues. Good atmosphere and design. Younger, upwardly mobile Korean crowd. Friendly, but not the best place for foreigners.

Banana

The entrance is next to California (see above). Fri/Sat dance club. There is a 50% entrance discount voucher available from Zipper (see above).

G

B/F Aviton Bld (bottom of "Homo Hill", a few metres from Trance and Why Not), Itaewon, (017) 216-1140. No cover charge before 9pm on Fri and Sat. Open all night until the subway starts!

Cinemas

East of Topkol Park (take the alley to the right as you face the Park., the Theater is about mid-park on the right). Buy a ticket for the movie in the right hand side of the theater (watch the other patrons if you're not sure). Cruising takes place in the dark theater and in the lounge area. The cafe across the street from the theater, on the second floor, is also supposed to be gay.

Kukdong movie theater on Toegero. To get to Kukdong, either by bus 81 from Itaewon, or subway Lines 3, 4,and 5, come out of Chungmuro Station exit 9 (even if you come by bus, find this exit so you can find the theater) and immediately make a 180 degree turn to the left at the top of the stairs. Walk about 30 feet to the little street, and you will see the blue Kukdong building across the street, just behind the Buy the Way convenience store. Pay your 4000 Won outside and walk in to the end of the lobby, give your ticket to the man in the glass booth, and turn right and then right again and up the stairs. Very popular cruise spot. Guys hang out at the large standing area in the back to find a partner.

Topkol Park (Independence Park)

Chongno Ave, downtown. Also known as "Pagoda Park". All the gay bars and the gay theater are north and east of this park. Best just before closing (inside) and after closing (around the outside). Koreans who speak English will approach you.

Chongno

Comments from the Net:

"The Chongno Sauna has been in Seoul at least as long as I have (twelve years), but the recent switch from daytime mixed baths to twenty-four hour no-holds-barred gay bath houses in Seoul has made the Chongno well worth the visit. To find it, get off any number of buses or subway line 1 at Chongno 2-Ga, walk to the north side of the street and look for the YMCA. At the east end of the Y by the Y Coffee Shop, walk about 20 feet down the little alley and turn right into the even narrower alley. Walk about 100 feet watching for the barber pole and the wide steps leading up to the building on the left with the sauna. Take the left door, pay just inside the door, and continue on to get your key and leave your shoes. The charge is about $3.00 for the day and about $5.50 for all night (after 6p,) The locker room, barbershop and wet areas are on that floor, but the real fun starts on the next two floors. After your shower and soak, take the very steep (hardly more than a ladder) steps from the locker room by the barbershop up to the rest areas. If the first one is too sedate for you, go on up the even steeper steps to the larger, somewhat darker and more active rest area with large bunks on both sides. Don't expect too sleep much, day or night, and if there's not much happening when you first go in, just wait a few minutes. I went on a Wednesday from noon to 5pm, probably the slowest time of the week, but I had the time of my life. The crowd tends to be somewhat younger than the Mun Hwa, but in any case, it's a different crowd. Spent, exhausted and sporting a big smile, I left there a very happy customer indeed." -- Jason B., May 4, 2001

Hyundai Core Sauna

A very spacious, clean, new 24-hour bath house in the Cheongnyangni area of Seoul, just a little northeast of downtown. Whether you take the subway (Line one, also called Korea National Railway), bus or train, get out in front of the big Lotte Department Store. If you arrive by train, you'll actually be behind the store. Anybody can point you to Lotte. Standing with the store directly behind you and the plaza in front of you, look about 45 degrees to the right and across the street for the Esquire shoe store (big blue signboard with rather small lettering) and cross the main street in that direction. Turn right and walk a few yards to the big farmers market and turn left. Walk along the right side of the stalls to a very large, white building with "24 hour Sauna" up on the facade). You will also see a large "RAVE" sign advertising the nightclub in the same building. At the corner of the building, you will see what looks like a snow cave. Enter there and down into the stairs into the basement. Keep going toward the other side of the building, buy your ticket before entering, lock your shoes in one of the small lockers in the anteroom, submit your ticket and pick up your main locker key just inside the door of the huge locker room. Now you will have two keys. The wet area is very large and clean with hot and warm tubs and a rather large cold pool, suitable for swimming. There are dry and steamy saunas and a very hot looking masseur/scrubber who works stark naked. The entrance to the large, bunked sleeping area is next to the barbershop. Unlike the other all-night saunas, this one comes equipped with soft foam mattresses to make your "sleeping" even more comfortable. As always, early mornings and early afternoons are best, but there's plenty of action action all night. As in the other 24-hour saunas, the crowd pretty much clears out after 6pm in the evening while they're cleaning the entire complex.

Hyundai Sauna

Itaewan, within walking distance of the gay bars. Walk down the little street across from the Hamilton past the Burger King and turn left up a small street with many food stalls. About 50 meters on the right side you will see a sauna icon (a stylized graphic of steam rising from a rock) and a barber pole (there are two places next to each other with a sauna icon, Hyundai is the second building with that icon). It's on the second floor and is busy all day. The action is upstairs in the sleeping room. Open 24 hours. Youth hostel (yogwan) sauna, young crowd.

Kangnam Express Bus Terminal (Ko sok terminal) (mixed)

This in not the new City Center terminal next door, but the older terraced building. Sauna is in the basement, in the extreme Northwest corner of the B1 floor, just around the corner from the big music store. Pay just inside the door and then continue on in the same direction through the curtains. Give the ticket to the shoe shine man, and he will give you a key. Deposit your shoes in the little alcove that matches the key number and continue on to the lockers that line the huge dressing room. Most of the action is in the sleeping area down the stairs to your left as you enter. This sauna is not entirely gay, so be discreet. Fun place, especially early weekend mornings. There tend to be several cute young guys who come in there after a night on the town, and many are available for some fun either before or after their naps. There are cruisers also on the roof (take the elevator to the 10th floor), but some are street-smart hustlers, so be careful.

Mun Hwa (mixed)

Find Chongno 3-Ga either by subway or bus. Everybody in Seoul can point you in the right direction. If you see Top-kol (Pagoda) park, walk east (turn left if you're coming out of the main gate of the park) cross the little side street (some years ago, it was referred to as Hustler Alley) and continue on down Chongno past the McDonalds and the Lotteria. On the far side of the Lotteria building, there is a very narrow passageway. Take that to the end. You will cross another small alleyway, but keep on going. You will see three barber poles. The entrance to the Mun Hwa is near the end of the little passageway at the third barber pole. Lots of action, specially wild on weekends. Open 24 hours a day. The guys don't wear towels, but they usually carry one to make a token pretense to modisty, especially when aroused. Anything goes both downstairs and upstairs in the "resting" areas, and, of course, in the sauna and steam room and just about everywhere else. Even though it's 90% gay, there is still a need to be a little discreet. The action is even better than ever.

Nam San

Take subway line 2, 4, or 5 to the "Dongdaemun Stadium" station. Use Exit #5, and at the top of the stairs, double back to your left about 50 feet to the crosswalk that goes under the highway overpass. On the other side of the street, turn left and walk to the main road, Changch'ung dan-gil, ignoring the little alley on your right. At the main road, again use the crosswalk and turn right (in the direction of Konguk University) and walk a short half block past the dental clinic, the big brick church, and the SK service station. The Nam San with its black sign in Roman letters is the little archway immediately past the gas station, and in the basement of the Hanvit Bank. This is not a sauna, but a traditional "sleeping room" facility. Pay the cashier 10,000 won (under $10), pick up your key, your gown and, of course, your shoes and put everything except your gown and key in the locker. You can wander around among the six rooms or lie down and wait for somebody to come along for some fun. The best hours are the wee hours of the morning (lots of horny guys), and the worst are 11am - 5pm.

Seoul Sauna

Comments from the Net:

"Seoul Sauna in Youngdungpo on the west side of Seoul has become another hot location, but with three subway stations now using the word Youngdungpo in the title, you have to make sure you get off at the Youngdungpo Station stop on Line 1. As you leave the station, you will see a Lotte Department Store incorporated into the train station. When you exit, turn left and walk down the main street a couple hundred yards to the first tall building on your left. The Seoul Sauna is on the third floor of the building. Open 24 hours, it has five "sleeping" rooms in additon to the shower room, sauna, and cold pool. Although some sleeping takes place, the action is nearly continuous, if somewhat less blatant than at the downtown saunas. If you don't find what you like in the first room, keep circulating until you score--and you will not have to look very long. Like the other all-night saunas and sleeping rooms, the action is hot and heavy during the night and early morning hours and continues at a somewhat less frenetic pace in the early afternoon. Around 6pm, nearly everybody clears out, as is the case in nearly all Korean bath houses, and action doesn't get hot again until late in the evening. Although I've not been there on weekend nights when the action is best, I've never been disappointed any day of the week." -- Jason B., May 4, 2001

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TAEGU -- area code (82-53)

2-Ban (pronounced "EE-Ban" in Korean, meaning Gay)

Up the street a short way from the central intercity bus terminal. A snack and karaoke bar/cafe. Clean and very friendly.

Mask

Near Dongtaegu Station, 756-1040. Dance/karaoke combination. English speaking owner.

Tombo (dragonfly)

745-5425. Up the street a short distance from the Dongtaegu intercity bus terminal. You will see the Parispaget bread shop under an overpass. Turn right, then you will see Tombo opposite the Ee-Van (2-Van). A western-style bar. Clean and very friendly. Prices are reasonable and staff is helpful. A quiet, elegant space with comfortable seating. Educated, well-dressed patrons, welcoming to foreigners.

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TAEJON -- area code (82-42)

3bar

3/F, between Che-il theater and Taejon theater in Eunhandong. It provides a cozy ambience for men in their 20a and 30s. Clean, comfortable and the host of the bar is very friendly.

Bean Pole

Diagonally across from LA and hidden in a creepy alleyway. Friendly anju bar with many hosts. This place can get quite lively on Sat. You will need a guide from LA to find it (tip him). The whole area around the train station is rough and a center of prostitution, so don't get drunk and stay out of conflicts.

LA

Anju bar across from the train station and north, 3 or 4 blocks, just past a gas station. The LA sign is right at street level. You will be pressured to buy expensive snacks.

Oksusu (corn)

254-0046. Nearby chung gu cheng. On second floor. Clean and comfortable. Open from 18:00 until late with disco on Fri and Sat. Welcomes foreigners. Young crowd.

Sar-ang-ban

A tiny, comfortable bar diagonally across from the front entrance of the Picasso Hotel. Picasso is behind the bus terminal. This little bar is below ground and opens about 7pm. It is right next to a corner snack store. Cute staff.

A great, clean, all-night sleeping room near the bus terminal. Ask staff at Sar-ang-ban (see above) to draw a map for you.

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